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She looks old enough to remember the high- rolling days of Vladivostok as a thriving free port, before it was closed down by the communists in Wearing a black and gold tigerskin dress, a rakish chiffon scarf tossed around her neck and carpet slippers, this ageing diva waltzes slowly around the grimy lobby, pushing a broom and humming to herself in another world. Closed completely to foreigners since and Foreign of the Russian Pacific Fleet, Vladivostok itself seems to belong to another world.
Foreigners have been officially welcome since January, but it is a strange welcome. At first sight, Vladivostok has a turn-of-the-century charm.
Clustered on hills around the port, it seems to be designed for panoramic postcard views. Along Svetlanskaya Street temporarily renamed Lenin Street for the past 70 years , the grand old houses built by the German, Italian, French and British traders years ago are still standing. Trams clank up and down the hills. In the centre is Vladivostok railway station, a green-turreted building whose first stone was laid by Tsar Nicholas II. It is the end of the great Trans-Siberian railway, and a plaque on Platform One says the railway, completed in , is 9,km from Moscow.
In the old days the Vladivostok- Paris 'Express' took 12 days. Like Shanghai, a thousand miles to the south on the coast of China, Vladivostok was a bustling merchant's paradise, where fortunes were made and lost overnight. When the communists arrived, they quickly put an end to the city's free-wheeling nature.
Now that their rule has ended, Vladivostok is rediscovering its old sins with a vengeance. Sitting around the lobby of the Hotel Vladivostok are a motley group of gangsters, wearing leather jackets and tracksuits, the elite of the city's growing underworld.